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Triangle Pouch Project

These triangular pouches are great for storing sewing supplies. The small one is ideal for holding a pack of our sewing clips, or other little things like safety pins. The larger can fit rotary cutters, seam rippers, snips and other sewing tools or several packs of our sewing clips.

Supplies needed for the large pouch Supplies needed for the small pouch
2 x 8 by 8 inch squares for lining

2 x 8 by 8 squares for the exterior fabric

2 x 8 by 8 square of either medium interfacing    or fusible fleece

3 x 7 inches strip of fabric for the handle

9 inch zip (or longer - you can trim it down)

1 pack of sewing clips

2 x 5 by 5 inch squares for lining

2 x 5 by 5 squares for the exterior fabric

2 x 5 by 5 square of either medium interfacing or fusible fleece

3 x 6 inches strip of fabric for the handle

6 inch zip (or longer - you can trim it down)

1 pack of sewing clips

We used fabrics from Art Gallery Fabrics Foresta Fusion range, and the lining on the green pouch is from their Oh Meow collection. Find UK stockists here.

Preparation

Cut your fabrics to the sizes detailed above, and iron your interfacing or fusible fleece onto the back of the exterior panels ( I used fusible fleece in mine). If you prefer you could use wadding and quilt the layers together instead.

Seam allowance

Use a quarter of an inch seam allowance throughout.

Handle

Fold your strip in half lengthways. Press. Open up and fold the 2 raw edges into the centre fold, press again. Then fold it in half again with the raw edges hidden on the inside, sew along either edge.

Zip

Place an exterior panel right side up. Put the zip on top aligned with one edge, have the zip facing right sides down. Put a lining fabric on top, with the right side facing down (so the right sides of both fabrics are facing).

Hold the fabric in place with a few of your sewing clips, then sew along the edge using your zipper foot. Your zip should be longer than your fabric so you can keep the zip pull out of the way whilst you sew.

Open it up so the lining fabric is behind your exterior fabric, finger press it into place then top stitch along the edge by the zip.

Place it so your exterior fabric is right sides up. Place your other exterior fabric right sides down and lined up with the other edge of the zip. Flip it over, place the other lining fabric right sides together lined up with the other side of the zip.  Clip into place and stitch.  Open it up, fold the lining fabric back behind the exterior fabric and top stitch the other side of the zip.

Pull the zip pull so it's between the 2 sides of fabric and stitch across the open end of the zip just past the fabric to keep the zip tails in place.

Adding the handle

Fold your handle in half. Aligning it with the edge of the fabric next to your zip pull, about quarter an inch in from the zip. Clip it into place, then sew into place (attaching it to the exterior fabric only, not the lining). Sew over it 2 or 3 times to ensure it's well secured.

Assembly

IMPORTANT - Unzip the zip before you do this the next stage. Stop around an inch before the end of the fabric.

Open it up and place the 2 right sides of your exterior fabric together, clip into place.  Repeat with the 2 lining fabrics on the other side of the zip.

Sew along the long edge which is on the opposite side of the fabric to your zip on both the lining and exterior fabrics.

On the end of your zip stop, open the fabrics up and line it so the seam where your 2 exterior panels join is touching the zip. Repeat with the seam where your 2 lining panels join. So half the exterior fabric is on one side of the zip, and half on the other (folded in half with right sides touching), same with the lining.

Clip into place then sew into place, go over the zip 2 or 3 times. Trim off any excess zip tape from that end and trim the corners to make them easier to turn out at the end. The picture above shows what it will look like after you have sewn that end.

On the other end pull the seam where your 2 exterior panels join away from the zip - so you end up with both pieces of exterior fabric touching right sides together on one side of the zip. Repeat for the lining. I think it looks a little like a fortune cookie at this point!

So unlike the previous step all your exterior fabric is on one side of the zip, and all the lining fabric is on the other side of the zip. Clip, then sew into place making sure the zip teeth are on the lining fabric side of the zip.

Leave a 2 inch gap when sewing along the lining side of the fabric. You need this for turning through. Sew over the zip 2 or three times like you did on the other end of the zip. Trim your corners and the end of the zip.

Use the hole in the lining to turn the pouch right sides out. Use a point turner to poke the corners out through the gap in the lining.

Sew the gap in the lining closed. Fill your pouch with your sewing clips and it's ready to use.

Triangle Pouch Project

General tips and points to remember…

  • The terms jersey, knitted and stretchy fabric can get used interchangeably, not just here but generally as you look around online you’ll see these terms being used to refer to similar things.
  • This fabric can be made from a variety of fibres such as cotton, viscose, modal, polyester, wool and bamboo. Usually they will also have a percentage of a stretchy fibre such as elastane or spandex.
  • The thickness or weight of them can be described in grams per square meter but as this number is hard to put into context and isn’t always available more subjective terms can be used to describe them such as light weight, medium weight etc
  • They can also be referred to with special more technical names such as ponte roma, double knit, single knit, sweatshirting and loop back. I’ll cover the most common ones below in more detail
  • I've tried to keep things are relevant as possible for the home dressmaker. These is lots of other more detailed and technical information out there but I hope this summery helps you understand more about this great fabric and how to sew it into your handmade wardrobe.

How to work out the amount and type of stretch

They stretch in different ways by different amounts. Some fabrics have a two way stretch and will stretch between the selvedges. Some have a 4 way stretch and will stretch lengthwise as well as between the selvedges. Use a swimsuit as a way to remember - it’s a 4 way stretch as it must stretch the length of your body as well as the width of your body.

The percentage of stretch refers to how much the fabric physically stretches, NOT the percentage of stretchy fibre (spandex or elastase) that is in them. Sewing patterns will typically as for a minimum percentage of stretch the fabric must have.

Why is percentage stretch important?

Sewing patterns designed for this type of fabric are typically designed with negative ease. This means that the garment you make will be smaller than your actual body measurement so that it stretches and fits around you. That’s why it's really important to use the right amount of stretch, otherwise you won’t be able to get the garment on/off or move in it!

How to use your Stretch Percentage Measurer

If you’re using a pattern which is designed for jersey fabrics then it will probably tell you the stretch percentage that the fabric you use needs to have. This is different from the stretch content, which is how much elastane or lycra is in the fabric.

Step One

Hold a 10cm section of your fabric, stretch it as far as it will comfortably stretch, without over stretching

Step Two

Every centimetre over 10 will correspond to 10% of stretching. So if your test piece stretches to 14cm, then the fabric has 40% stretch.