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Project Pouch Tutorial

Project Bag Tutorial

This large project pouch will easily hold the fabric and pattern for your next project, or your works in progress. Why not make several because let’s face it we never just work on one project at a time! I’ve designed the pouch to showcase some of your favourite scraps, but if you wanted to you could just use a single fabric front and back and show off a large-scale print instead.

Materials

1/2m of fabric for the exterior. I used a grey linen.

1/2m of lining fabric. I used a grey blender.

A selection of scraps cut to 4 inches high by 2.5 inches wide, you will need 16 in total. I used Makower’s Stitch in Time fabrics which I fussy cut.

1/2m of light or medium fusible interfacing. I used Vlieseline F220

A 15 inch zip (or larger cut down to size which is what I did as I never seem to have the right size zip to hand!)

Cutting instructions

Cut 4 pieces 16 inches wide by 5.5 inches high from the exterior fabric

Cut 2 pieces 16 inches wide by 14 inches high from the lining fabric

Tip – If you want to make your exterior from 1 single fabric instead of patchwork cut 2 pieces of exterior fabric the same size as the lining pieces

Cut 16 pieces of 2.5 inch wide and 4 inch high scraps for the centre strips of patchwork

Cut 2 pieces of interfacing 16 inches wide by 14 inches high

Cut 2 pieces 1.5 inch square from the exterior fabric for zip tabs

Seam Allowance – ¼ an inch throughout

Step 1 – Making the exterior

Choose the layout for your scraps. Arrange them into 2 rows of 8 and decide what order you want them to go in.

Sew your 2 strips together using a ¼ of an inch seam allowance. Press the seams open after stitching.

Sew a piece of the exterior fabric to either side of the strip. Repeat for the second strip.

Fuse the interfacing to the back of each of your exterior panels.

Top stitch either side of the patchwork strip, ¼ an inch from the patchwork.

Step 2 – Sewing the zip

Press in a ¼ an inch fold on 2 opposite ends of one of the zip tabs. Repeat for the other tab then fold them in half (folded edges on the inside) and press.

Place one of the folded tabs over one end of the zip. Top stitch into place making sure you don’t sew over the metal zip stopper as that could break your needle. Repeat the process for the other end of the zip using the other zip tab.

Trim the tabs so they are around ¼ an inch wider than the zip on both sides.

Place one of your exterior panels right side up (if you are using directional prints make sure they are facing upwards as in the photo above). Put the zip across the top, aligned with the top raw edge and centred on the panel, facing right side down (so you will see the back of the zip). Put one of your lining fabrics on top, again aligning the top edges, the lining should be right side down so you only see the back of the fabric.

Use pins or wonder clips to hold the layers together and sew along the top ¼ an inch from the edge (you may need to use your zipper foot for this). When you get close to the zip pull, stop with the needle in the fabric, lift the foot and slide the zip pull along so it’s behind the foot. Put the foot back down and continue sewing.

Repeat these steps for the other side of the zip. Press the fabrics away from the zip and top stitch along the top of the fabric ¼ an inch from the edge of the zip.

IMPORTANT Open the zip before the next stage

Step 3 - Assembling the pouch

Place the 2 exterior panels right sides together, and the 2 lining fabrics right sides together with the zip in the middle. Pin or clip around the edges to hold them into place.

Mark a 4 inch gap on the centre of the bottom of the lining – do not sew that bit. It will be for turning through later.

Sew right around the edge, apart from the 4 inch gap in the lining. Clip the corners to reduce bulk and then turn the pouch right side out through the gap in the lining.

Sew the gap in the lining closed either by hand or machine.

Now your project pouch is finished. Time to start a new project so you can store the pieces in your pouch 😊

Variation ideas:

  • You could use fusible fleece or wadding instead of interfacing and quilt your exterior panels.
  • If you don’t want to do patchwork why not find a contrasting fabric for your centre strip – cut the strips 16 inches wide by 4 inches high.
  • Use a large-scale fabric cut to the same size as the lining fabrics for a single fabric exterior.
  • You could use a plain fabric strip and applique/embroider words onto it like ‘sew’ or ‘projects’

Why not make our Maker's Box next for more sewing room storage?

Project Pouch Tutorial

General tips and points to remember…

  • The terms jersey, knitted and stretchy fabric can get used interchangeably, not just here but generally as you look around online you’ll see these terms being used to refer to similar things.
  • This fabric can be made from a variety of fibres such as cotton, viscose, modal, polyester, wool and bamboo. Usually they will also have a percentage of a stretchy fibre such as elastane or spandex.
  • The thickness or weight of them can be described in grams per square meter but as this number is hard to put into context and isn’t always available more subjective terms can be used to describe them such as light weight, medium weight etc
  • They can also be referred to with special more technical names such as ponte roma, double knit, single knit, sweatshirting and loop back. I’ll cover the most common ones below in more detail
  • I've tried to keep things are relevant as possible for the home dressmaker. These is lots of other more detailed and technical information out there but I hope this summery helps you understand more about this great fabric and how to sew it into your handmade wardrobe.

How to work out the amount and type of stretch

They stretch in different ways by different amounts. Some fabrics have a two way stretch and will stretch between the selvedges. Some have a 4 way stretch and will stretch lengthwise as well as between the selvedges. Use a swimsuit as a way to remember - it’s a 4 way stretch as it must stretch the length of your body as well as the width of your body.

The percentage of stretch refers to how much the fabric physically stretches, NOT the percentage of stretchy fibre (spandex or elastase) that is in them. Sewing patterns will typically as for a minimum percentage of stretch the fabric must have.

Why is percentage stretch important?

Sewing patterns designed for this type of fabric are typically designed with negative ease. This means that the garment you make will be smaller than your actual body measurement so that it stretches and fits around you. That’s why it's really important to use the right amount of stretch, otherwise you won’t be able to get the garment on/off or move in it!

How to use your Stretch Percentage Measurer

If you’re using a pattern which is designed for jersey fabrics then it will probably tell you the stretch percentage that the fabric you use needs to have. This is different from the stretch content, which is how much elastane or lycra is in the fabric.

Step One

Hold a 10cm section of your fabric, stretch it as far as it will comfortably stretch, without over stretching

Step Two

Every centimetre over 10 will correspond to 10% of stretching. So if your test piece stretches to 14cm, then the fabric has 40% stretch.