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Simple Sampler Cushion

We have designed this project to work with the 6.5 inch quilt block tutorials found in our Quilting Maker's Workbook.

The Maker's Workbook is a quilting journal to help you keep track of your quilting projects and design new ones! There are ten 6.5 inch block tutorials contained within the book, this cushion tutorial uses 9 of them.

You could also use any 6.5 inch blocks you have, or use 6.5 inch squares of fabric for an even easier cushion.


You will need

  • A selection of co-coordinating fat quarters, fat eighths or large scraps. We used the Art Gallery Fabrics Summering edition fat quarter bundle. Find UK stockists of this bundle here. You also need at least 1 scrap which can be fussy cut.
  • 1 metre of background and backing fabric. We used Art Gallery Fabrics Pure Solids in Mediterraneo.
  • A 22 inch cushion pad.
    If you have slightly larger or smaller cushion pad you can adjust the size of the sashing and borders to make it fit. You want the finished cushion cover to be the same size as the cushion pad for a good fit.  Just make sure you take in account the seam allowances when doing your calculations.

Useful to have - I use sewing clips when I'm sewing and find them incredibly handy. We have a set of rainbow ones here.

Seam Allowance - 1/4 an inch

Step 1

Make 9 of the 6.5 inch block designs found in the Quilting Maker's Workbook.  We left out the rail fence block but made all the others. Please note if you decide to make the rail fence block there is a slight error in the cutting sizes, your strips should be 1.5 x 3.5 inches.

Step 2 

Trim all your blocks to 6.5 inches square, then play around with the layout until you find one you like. I laid mine out on top of the backing fabric to ensure the backing worked with the blocks.

Step 3

Trim the selvedges off your background fabric then cut 4 strips from it,  1.5 inches x width of the fabric.  These will be used for your sashing and borders.

Sub cut those strips into:

6 x 6.5 inch strips (sashing between blocks)

2 x 20.5 inch strips (sashing between columns)

4 x 22.5 inch strips (borders)

Step 4

Join your columns of 3 blocks by sewing the 6.5 inch strips to the top and bottom of the centre block, then join the top and bottom block on the other side of the sashing strips. Use a quarter of an inch seam allowance.

Use the 20.5 inch strips to join your 3 columns together as shown in the picture above.

Then use the remaining strips to attach your border. Sew a 22.5 inch strip to either side of the panel, trim any excess and then sew the 2 remaining strips across the top and the bottom.

Step 5

If you don't plan to quilt it skip this step.  If you'd like to quilt your cushion front cut a piece of wadding around an inch larger than your cushion front panel on all sides.

Baste your cushion front to the wadding. I use 505 temporary glue spray but you can use pins, stitch basting or other basting sprays.

Quilt as desired. I followed the geometric elements of the blocks with coordinating threads to quilt my cushion but you could do an all over design in one colour if you want something quicker.

Stitch around the very edge of the cushion front, within the 1/4 inch seam allowance (so ideally around 1/8 of an inch from the edge). Trim away any excess wadding.

Step 6

From your remaining backing fabric cut 2 pieces 15 x 22.5 inches.

Using your iron press in one of the 22.5 inch edges by approximately 1/4 an inch. I tend to eyeball it rather than measure but you can measure if you prefer.  Fold it over and do the same again.  Repeat with one of the long edges on your other piece of fabric. Stitch along the inside edge to secure.

Step 7

Lay your cushion front panel down flat with the right side facing upwards. Position one of the backing pieces on top - wrong side up so the right side is touching the right side of the cushion front. Line it up so the sides and bottom align with the front panel, and the hemmed edge is in the middle.  Use your sewing clips or pins to hold it in place.

Take the other backing piece and lay it the same way but aligned with the top and side edges of the front panel. It should overlap the bottom piece by a few inches. Pin or clip into place.

Sew right around the edge using a quarter of an inch seam allowance.


Step 8 

If your sewing machine has an overedge foot (like the one shown above) switch over to that and the overedge stitch. Alternatively you can use a tight zigzag stitch, or an overlocker. Sew around the edge again to protect the raw edges, this means they are much less likely to fray when you wash the cushion cover in the future.

Turn the cushion cover through, poking out the corners. Stuff with your cushion pad using the opening in the back.

Now enjoy your new cushion!

You can buy your Quilting Maker's Workbook here to get the block tutorials.

Simple Sampler Cushion

General tips and points to remember…

  • The terms jersey, knitted and stretchy fabric can get used interchangeably, not just here but generally as you look around online you’ll see these terms being used to refer to similar things.
  • This fabric can be made from a variety of fibres such as cotton, viscose, modal, polyester, wool and bamboo. Usually they will also have a percentage of a stretchy fibre such as elastane or spandex.
  • The thickness or weight of them can be described in grams per square meter but as this number is hard to put into context and isn’t always available more subjective terms can be used to describe them such as light weight, medium weight etc
  • They can also be referred to with special more technical names such as ponte roma, double knit, single knit, sweatshirting and loop back. I’ll cover the most common ones below in more detail
  • I've tried to keep things are relevant as possible for the home dressmaker. These is lots of other more detailed and technical information out there but I hope this summery helps you understand more about this great fabric and how to sew it into your handmade wardrobe.

How to work out the amount and type of stretch

They stretch in different ways by different amounts. Some fabrics have a two way stretch and will stretch between the selvedges. Some have a 4 way stretch and will stretch lengthwise as well as between the selvedges. Use a swimsuit as a way to remember - it’s a 4 way stretch as it must stretch the length of your body as well as the width of your body.

The percentage of stretch refers to how much the fabric physically stretches, NOT the percentage of stretchy fibre (spandex or elastase) that is in them. Sewing patterns will typically as for a minimum percentage of stretch the fabric must have.

Why is percentage stretch important?

Sewing patterns designed for this type of fabric are typically designed with negative ease. This means that the garment you make will be smaller than your actual body measurement so that it stretches and fits around you. That’s why it's really important to use the right amount of stretch, otherwise you won’t be able to get the garment on/off or move in it!

How to use your Stretch Percentage Measurer

If you’re using a pattern which is designed for jersey fabrics then it will probably tell you the stretch percentage that the fabric you use needs to have. This is different from the stretch content, which is how much elastane or lycra is in the fabric.

Step One

Hold a 10cm section of your fabric, stretch it as far as it will comfortably stretch, without over stretching

Step Two

Every centimetre over 10 will correspond to 10% of stretching. So if your test piece stretches to 14cm, then the fabric has 40% stretch.