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What is the difference between FPP and EPP?

With paper piecing in the name of both it’s easy to get foundation paper piecing (FPP) and English paper piecing (EPP) confused, especially if you are new to quilting.  They are in fact two very different techniques, one involving hand stitching and one involving machine piecing.

 

What is foundation paper piecing?

Foundation piecing is a method of quilting that allows you to use small scraps to sew detailed designs, or designs which require precision piecing by sewing through lines on paper which you then tear off afterwards. You can use free foundation patterns, purchased patterns or downloads from books and magazines which you either print directly onto the paper, trace onto the paper or draw on freehand. You sew along the lines to ensure precision, this allows you to create designs that would be very tricky using traditional piecing methods such as the Millennium Falcon cushion I made shown above (free pattern here).

What is foundation paper piecing

 

We have written a beginner’s guide to foundation paper piecing plus we sell paper especially designed for foundation piecing too.

 

English paper piecing
An English Paper Pieced Lion

What is English Paper Piecing?

English paper piecing is a hand sewing technique which involves stitching fabric shapes around a paper or card template and then hand sewing the shapes together (removing the paper or card once you have finished piecing). Unlike with foundation paper piecing you can normally reuse the papers you remove from your English Paper piecing. This technique allows for more accurate stitching of difficult shapes like hexagons and makes it easier to join difficult angles. Above is an English Paper pieced lion I made using a pattern by Violet Craft.

Hexagons are a common English paper pieced shape

There is a tutorial for learning English paper piecing here.

Both techniques are used to make quilts or patchwork and quilting projects like cushions, pouches and bags. They are also both scrap friendly quilting techniques but foundation piecing is done by machine, and you cannot reuse the paper, English paper piecing is done by hand and you can reuse your templates.

What is the difference between FPP and EPP?

General tips and points to remember…

  • The terms jersey, knitted and stretchy fabric can get used interchangeably, not just here but generally as you look around online you’ll see these terms being used to refer to similar things.
  • This fabric can be made from a variety of fibres such as cotton, viscose, modal, polyester, wool and bamboo. Usually they will also have a percentage of a stretchy fibre such as elastane or spandex.
  • The thickness or weight of them can be described in grams per square meter but as this number is hard to put into context and isn’t always available more subjective terms can be used to describe them such as light weight, medium weight etc
  • They can also be referred to with special more technical names such as ponte roma, double knit, single knit, sweatshirting and loop back. I’ll cover the most common ones below in more detail
  • I've tried to keep things are relevant as possible for the home dressmaker. These is lots of other more detailed and technical information out there but I hope this summery helps you understand more about this great fabric and how to sew it into your handmade wardrobe.

How to work out the amount and type of stretch

They stretch in different ways by different amounts. Some fabrics have a two way stretch and will stretch between the selvedges. Some have a 4 way stretch and will stretch lengthwise as well as between the selvedges. Use a swimsuit as a way to remember - it’s a 4 way stretch as it must stretch the length of your body as well as the width of your body.

The percentage of stretch refers to how much the fabric physically stretches, NOT the percentage of stretchy fibre (spandex or elastase) that is in them. Sewing patterns will typically as for a minimum percentage of stretch the fabric must have.

Why is percentage stretch important?

Sewing patterns designed for this type of fabric are typically designed with negative ease. This means that the garment you make will be smaller than your actual body measurement so that it stretches and fits around you. That’s why it's really important to use the right amount of stretch, otherwise you won’t be able to get the garment on/off or move in it!

How to use your Stretch Percentage Measurer

If you’re using a pattern which is designed for jersey fabrics then it will probably tell you the stretch percentage that the fabric you use needs to have. This is different from the stretch content, which is how much elastane or lycra is in the fabric.

Step One

Hold a 10cm section of your fabric, stretch it as far as it will comfortably stretch, without over stretching

Step Two

Every centimetre over 10 will correspond to 10% of stretching. So if your test piece stretches to 14cm, then the fabric has 40% stretch.