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Pineapple Quilt Block Pattern

The pineapple quilt block is great for scrap busting, or you can do each square a different colour or alternate light and dark colours for a striking effect. We opted for scrappy. If this is a new skill for you read our beginners guide to foundation paper piecing before you start using our free foundation pieced pineapple block.

Start by printing the block onto our foundation paper, download the Pineapple quilt block template

Check your printer settings to make sure the scale is set to print at 100% to fill the sheet and print to the correct size. There is a 1 inch test square to allow you to check it has printed correctly.

Cut around the edge of the outer square. Fold the paper along the lines, this will make it easier later in the process.

Our foundation paper is semi transparent which makes it really easy to place fabric so you can fussy cut. We decided to use a fussy cut centre for our block. Cut your first piece of fabric so it's at least 1/4 an inch larger than the centre square (labelled 1).  Because I'm using small scraps I'm not cutting them down, if you are using other fabric you want to cut roughly to size to avoid fabric wastage.

Note - When paper piecing you place fabric on the back of the paper and sew from the front.

Using fabric glue cover the piece labelled 1 on the back of the paper, place your first piece of fabric on top with the wrong side of the fabric against the glue. Flip the paper over so the fabric is facing downwards, fold the line between piece 1 and piece 2 (if you pre-folded it will fold back easily). Using a ruler trim back any fabric that goes beyond 1/4 of an inch from the edge of the paper. I'm using an add a quarter ruler which is great for paper piecing.

Add your next piece of fabric right sides together with the first fabric aligned with the edge that extends 1/4 an inch beyond the line between 1 and 2. Make sure it's large enough to cover piece 2 entirely even after the seam allowance has been removed.

Note - You want to sew with small stitches when paper piecing so you don't pull the stitches out when you remove the paper. I sew with a stitch length of 1.3.

Take it over to your sewing machine, flip the paper over so the fabrics are facing down. Sew along the line between piece 1 and piece 2. This will join the 2 pieces of fabric.

Fold the second piece of fabric back so it covers piece 2, press into place. You want to press the fabrics into place after every piece you sew.

Fold the line between 1 and 3, repeat the process, trimming, sewing and pressing until you have sewn the whole block.

Trim around the block back to the edge of the paper. You don't need to leave a 1/4 an inch seam allowance here as we added it to the original template.

Tear away the paper from the back of your block and give the block a final press. Now your block is finished.

Why not make the economy block included in our introduction to foundation paper piecing article next? Or we have 10 free 6.5 inch quilt blocks included in our Quilter's Workbook with a free sampler cushion project on our blog.

Pineapple Quilt Block Pattern

General tips and points to remember…

  • The terms jersey, knitted and stretchy fabric can get used interchangeably, not just here but generally as you look around online you’ll see these terms being used to refer to similar things.
  • This fabric can be made from a variety of fibres such as cotton, viscose, modal, polyester, wool and bamboo. Usually they will also have a percentage of a stretchy fibre such as elastane or spandex.
  • The thickness or weight of them can be described in grams per square meter but as this number is hard to put into context and isn’t always available more subjective terms can be used to describe them such as light weight, medium weight etc
  • They can also be referred to with special more technical names such as ponte roma, double knit, single knit, sweatshirting and loop back. I’ll cover the most common ones below in more detail
  • I've tried to keep things are relevant as possible for the home dressmaker. These is lots of other more detailed and technical information out there but I hope this summery helps you understand more about this great fabric and how to sew it into your handmade wardrobe.

How to work out the amount and type of stretch

They stretch in different ways by different amounts. Some fabrics have a two way stretch and will stretch between the selvedges. Some have a 4 way stretch and will stretch lengthwise as well as between the selvedges. Use a swimsuit as a way to remember - it’s a 4 way stretch as it must stretch the length of your body as well as the width of your body.

The percentage of stretch refers to how much the fabric physically stretches, NOT the percentage of stretchy fibre (spandex or elastase) that is in them. Sewing patterns will typically as for a minimum percentage of stretch the fabric must have.

Why is percentage stretch important?

Sewing patterns designed for this type of fabric are typically designed with negative ease. This means that the garment you make will be smaller than your actual body measurement so that it stretches and fits around you. That’s why it's really important to use the right amount of stretch, otherwise you won’t be able to get the garment on/off or move in it!

How to use your Stretch Percentage Measurer

If you’re using a pattern which is designed for jersey fabrics then it will probably tell you the stretch percentage that the fabric you use needs to have. This is different from the stretch content, which is how much elastane or lycra is in the fabric.

Step One

Hold a 10cm section of your fabric, stretch it as far as it will comfortably stretch, without over stretching

Step Two

Every centimetre over 10 will correspond to 10% of stretching. So if your test piece stretches to 14cm, then the fabric has 40% stretch.