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Do you need a special paper for foundation piecing?

The short answer is no, you can just use printer paper for foundation paper piecing. But the longer answer is that our foundation paper has several benefits which will make foundation piecing so much easier!

Below are the reasons why it’s best to use a purpose designed foundation paper:

  • It is semi transparent which makes fabric placement much easier. You start foundation piecing by gluing your first fabric piece onto the back of your paper – with the design printed on the front. With printer paper you can’t easily see if the fabric is covering the relevant area of the design without holding it up to the light, with our paper you can because of the transparency.
  • It tears away easily!  This is what puts many people off paper piecing, they struggle to remove the papers afterwards and have to faff around with tweezers pulling tiny pieces of paper out from the stitching. You don’t have to do that with our foundation paper it rips away easily without leaving bits behind.
  • It’s heat resistant. There’s a lot of pressing involved in paper piecing and many papers scorch or curl up under the heat of the iron. Our paper does neither, you can put the iron directly on it for several seconds and suffer no adverse affects.
  • It can survive being unpicked several times! This was an essential for us, I don’t think I’ve made many foundation pieced projects without a little seam ripping being involved. A lot of paper starts to fall apart once you’ve unpicked it a few times, then you have to go through the hassle of re-printing your pattern again. I’ve unpicked ours 2 or 3 times on occasions and it’s still intact and ready for you to sew again.
  • Easy to fold – You need to fold along the lines of your design to trim the seam allowance off the fabric. Our paper is thinner than regular paper so it’s easier to fold it along your printed lines.

Foundation paper piecing  can be a fiddly technique, why make it any more difficult but using something not designed for the job?

Why not check out our free foundation piecing projects and order a pack of our British made foundation paper and give it a try. If you are new to foundation paper piecing we have a beginner’s guide here. We’ve had so many people who have tried it and said they will never go back to using printer paper now they realise how much easier our foundation paper makes it.

Do you need a special paper for foundation piecing?

General tips and points to remember…

  • The terms jersey, knitted and stretchy fabric can get used interchangeably, not just here but generally as you look around online you’ll see these terms being used to refer to similar things.
  • This fabric can be made from a variety of fibres such as cotton, viscose, modal, polyester, wool and bamboo. Usually they will also have a percentage of a stretchy fibre such as elastane or spandex.
  • The thickness or weight of them can be described in grams per square meter but as this number is hard to put into context and isn’t always available more subjective terms can be used to describe them such as light weight, medium weight etc
  • They can also be referred to with special more technical names such as ponte roma, double knit, single knit, sweatshirting and loop back. I’ll cover the most common ones below in more detail
  • I've tried to keep things are relevant as possible for the home dressmaker. These is lots of other more detailed and technical information out there but I hope this summery helps you understand more about this great fabric and how to sew it into your handmade wardrobe.

How to work out the amount and type of stretch

They stretch in different ways by different amounts. Some fabrics have a two way stretch and will stretch between the selvedges. Some have a 4 way stretch and will stretch lengthwise as well as between the selvedges. Use a swimsuit as a way to remember - it’s a 4 way stretch as it must stretch the length of your body as well as the width of your body.

The percentage of stretch refers to how much the fabric physically stretches, NOT the percentage of stretchy fibre (spandex or elastase) that is in them. Sewing patterns will typically as for a minimum percentage of stretch the fabric must have.

Why is percentage stretch important?

Sewing patterns designed for this type of fabric are typically designed with negative ease. This means that the garment you make will be smaller than your actual body measurement so that it stretches and fits around you. That’s why it's really important to use the right amount of stretch, otherwise you won’t be able to get the garment on/off or move in it!

How to use your Stretch Percentage Measurer

If you’re using a pattern which is designed for jersey fabrics then it will probably tell you the stretch percentage that the fabric you use needs to have. This is different from the stretch content, which is how much elastane or lycra is in the fabric.

Step One

Hold a 10cm section of your fabric, stretch it as far as it will comfortably stretch, without over stretching

Step Two

Every centimetre over 10 will correspond to 10% of stretching. So if your test piece stretches to 14cm, then the fabric has 40% stretch.